Snow Blower help
Forums Archive Index > Outdoor Power Equipment > Snow Blower help
Author: Linco12
Date: 20 Dec 2006 3:01 pm
I just got a free snow blower from a friend it is a Toro 7/24 and it wont start. I changed the spark plug and gas and I can get it to start and run for a few seconds if I remove the spark plug and put a bit of gas there. I am guessing that I need to clean the carburetor but I am not really sure how. I really don't know that much about engines so I have no idea what the carburetor looks like or where to find it. If anyone could describe where to find it and the proper steps that I need to take to clean it I would greatly appreciate it.
Author: Majorxlr8n
Date: 20 Dec 2006 3:57 pm
Hi Linco12 & WELCOME!! :D
If you post the actual model & serial numbers off the tag at the bottom, rear of the machine that would be very helpful for us to help you! This way we'll know exactly what we're dealing with. :)
If you follow the steel, throttle cable from the operator panel it will lead you to the carb. The reason you can't see it is that it may be hiding underneath a tin "box". This box is the heat shield.
If you cannot provide the numbers, a pic of the engine would be of some help.
Marty
Author: OldToroOwner
Date: 20 Dec 2006 5:26 pm
Like Marty said, try and get the numbers off the frame.
I think you have the same frame as mine. Should be in the back in-between the handle bars(where they attach down to the frame)
probably a 38XXX series or similar. Maybe a 38050??
Then you can go to Toro's site and download a parts exploded diagram and/or the manual.
Author: Linco12
Date: 20 Dec 2006 6:13 pm
The model number is 38050. I will head over to the Toro website and see if I can find the manual. Do you guys have any tips on actually cleaning it? Or should I just get some cleaner and go to town on it?
Author: Linco12
Date: 20 Dec 2006 6:38 pm
Well I wont over to the Toro site and it wont let me download the manual for reason.
Author: OldToroOwner
Date: 20 Dec 2006 9:19 pm
Linco12 wrote:
Well I wont over to the Toro site and it wont let me download the manual for reason.
A lot of their manuals you have to order...it's just the way it is. The manual really won't help you do a detailed take down on your Tec engine anyway, it's just for routine maintenance.
You need to download the manual for L-head engines.
Do a search on the forum and it will come up....
I'll see if I can find it for you.
Edit: here you go...
http://www.cpdonline.com
You can get an exploded parts view on the Toro site for that particular model, though.
Author: Majorxlr8n
Date: 21 Dec 2006 12:09 am
Go here for an engine manual for your Tecumseh:
http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf
The other link that was listed will not link you to the free download...
For a quick attempt, look at the bottom of the carb. You will see a small bowl about half the size of a bathroom cup. Chances are there is a screw/spring (high speed mixture screw) at the bottom of it - try turning it COUNTERCLOCKWISE a 1/2 turn, attempt to start it & see if it runs. If it stalls again, drain the fuel tank or use the fuel shutoff if equipped and turn it OFF. Remove the "nut" that the spring/screw is attached to - its either 7/16 or 1/2". Fuel will spill out so have rags or a catch can ready. The bowl may fall off so be ready in case it does, as the float needle could fall off. You will now have the bowl nut in your hand. It will look like this:
Clean out those small holes with a fine wire & spray well with carb cleaner. Reassemble. Refer to the manual for specifics...
HTH,
Marty
Author: Yukon
Date: 21 Dec 2006 1:22 am
Majorxlr8n wrote:
Go here for an engine manual for your Tecumseh:
http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf
The other link that was listed will not link you to the free download...
For a quick attempt, look at the bottom of the carb. You will see a small bowl about half the size of a bathroom cup. Chances are there is a screw/spring (high speed mixture screw) at the bottom of it - try turning it COUNTERCLOCKWISE a 1/2 turn, attempt to start it & see if it runs. If it stalls again, drain the fuel tank or use the fuel shutoff if equipped and turn it OFF. Remove the "nut" that the spring/screw is attached to - its either 7/16 or 1/2". Fuel will spill out so have rags or a catch can ready. The bowl may fall off so be ready in case it does, as the float needle could fall off. You will now have the bowl nut in your hand. It will look like this:
Clean out those small holes with a fine wire & spray well with carb cleaner. Reassemble. Refer to the manual for specifics...
HTH,
Marty
Question: When removing the bowl nut, do you leave the high speed mixture screw in and then remove it from the bowl nut? or do you remove the screw first then remove the bowl nut? or does it matter either way? Enquiring minds what to know.
Author: Majorxlr8n
Date: 21 Dec 2006 2:09 am
Yukon wrote:
Question: When removing the bowl nut, do you leave the high speed mixture screw in and then remove it from the bowl nut? or do you remove the screw first then remove the bowl nut? or does it matter either way? Enquiring minds what to know.
I usually remove the entire thing, then unscrew the high speed screw. This allows for easy retrieval of the spring & its "O" ring. They have a habit of performing a disappearing act if you're not careful. Especially if you are reusing the parts! Once you have a "bare" bowl nut, then it can be cleaned with the wire & spray...
Marty
Author: Linco12
Date: 21 Dec 2006 3:19 pm
Well I gave the screw a ½ a turn and had no luck with that. So I closed the fuel line and removed the bolt and cleaned it. Before putting the bolt back in I opened the fuel line all the way up just to see if any gas would come out. No gas ended up coming out, so do you guy’s thinks that my fuel lines are all gummed up? Or does the fuel line enter the carburetor at a point that could become gummed up?
Author: buttlint
Date: 21 Dec 2006 4:05 pm
Linc.
Fuel lines dont plug up. They can turn too mush and kink from fuel that has been left in them for years but they really dont plug up.
Try removing the fuel cap and see what happens. If you get fuel flow then you have a cap problem. You can also remove the line from the carb and see if you are getting fuel too that point.
Have you removed the bowl? If so....how foul was what you found inside?
If you have removed the bowl, it is possible that the needle valve wire slipped out from under the tang and is now sitting on top of the tang and is shutting off the fuel flow with the bowl reinstalled.
Author: Linco12
Date: 21 Dec 2006 4:34 pm
Well I was able to remove the fuel line and fuel was coming out when I opened the valve. I was also able to remove the carburetor from the snow blower, now that it is off what is the best way to clean this thing? Are there any key areas that I should focus on? The bowl had some junk in it but nothing to bad and I was able to wipe it out. I also found the needel valve and I will remeber to put it under the tang when I put everyhting back on.
Author: OldToroOwner
Date: 21 Dec 2006 4:38 pm
Linco12 wrote:
Well I was able to remove the fuel line and fuel was coming out when I opened the valve. I was also able to remove the carburetor from the snow blower, now that it is off what is the best way to clean this thing? Are there any key areas that I should focus on? The bowl had some junk in it but nothing to bad and I was able to wipe it out. I also found the needel valve and I will remeber to put it under the tang when I put everyhting back on.
If you've got the carb off now...you might as well get a gasket kit and rebuild it with all new gaskets.
$10-$12, at your local OPE dealer.
Author: buttlint
Date: 21 Dec 2006 5:35 pm
Remember too mark the holes that the governor link came out of. (Too late?)
Do not adjust the low speed needle with the carb held upside down.
Follow along in the manual that you downloaded and you should have no problems.
Author: Linco12
Date: 30 Dec 2006 12:54 pm
So I took the carburetor off and soaked it in some carburetor cleaner. I cleaned out the bowl and the high speed bolt and needle and cleaned everything as best as I could without an air compressor and it still wont start. Like I said before if I remove the spark plug and put some gas there it starts right for a few seconds. Any ideas?
Author: OldToroOwner
Date: 30 Dec 2006 1:47 pm
Are you sure you're getting fuel to the carb??
stupid question but...fuel cut off valve is open, right??
Author: Linco12
Date: 30 Dec 2006 2:16 pm
Yes it is open and when I remove the fule line from the carb fuel comes out of it. Is there soething that could be stoping the fuel from leaveing the line and entering the carb?
Author: OldToroOwner
Date: 30 Dec 2006 2:43 pm
Linco12 wrote:
Yes it is open and when I remove the fule line from the carb fuel comes out of it. Is there soething that could be stoping the fuel from leaveing the line and entering the carb?
it's possible but...
when the throttle plate is fully closed, is fuel coming into the nozzle?
Do you have a pump style choke or a lever/wire for the choke??
are you keeping the gas cap off...just to make sure?
if you choke it are you seeing any evidence of fuel in the nozzle area?? :?
Author: Linco12
Date: 30 Dec 2006 3:17 pm
Well I was just able to get it started by adjusting the needle so that it is really lose. The problem with this is if I leave it like that fuel starts leaking from it. I can tighten it to the point that it will stop but then I cannot bring down the choke at all or it will die. Also once I get it going as soon as I try to push the lever on the handle and shift it into gear to get it moving it dies on me.
Author: OldToroOwner
Date: 30 Dec 2006 7:16 pm
It almost sounds like you float is leaking... :?
Either that or your inlet needle and /or seat is seriously "effed up"!
Are you positive you checked all this stuff when you reassembled?
just asking...everyone makes mistakes...
Author: Majorxlr8n
Date: 30 Dec 2006 9:07 pm
Linco - did you clean out the small holes on the sides of the bowl nut?
Also, run a wire thru the vertical "tube" that is above the bowl nut. I bet you still have some blocked passages somewhere.
Marty