Forums Archive Index > Outdoor Power Equipment > ITS ALIVE (the snapper that is...
Date: 6 Dec 2006 8:38 pm
I got the snapper running, after going to the ope shop earlier today. Went to get a whole carb rebuild kit, but they said that if all I needed was a carb gasket, and a washer thingy(goes on bottom of bowl) that I could just get that, so I did. Got home installed both things, also sprayed carb cleaner on the float and the bolt thing(forgot the name)the hold the bowl on. Sprayed a generous amount of starter fluid into air intake, put fresh gas into tank, adn primed 3 times. Choke off(accident) fired up on second pull ran for a few sec then stopped. I Came inside to proclaim the good news, went back out, no starter fluid, pushed primer 3 times, choke off(still never looking at little stikcker and not noticing) the engine fired up on the second pull!!!!!!!! :P :D :) :o :wink: :!: :!: but sounded like up was over-revving, so I go to stop engine. Pull out little key thats supposed to stop it. Thinking it was already on choke i didnt try to choke it. Even though I new the trottle is stuck i moved the lever to stop. It was still going strong, so i pulled the wire off the sparkplug to stop it.
So, today I've learned 4 things about the machine,
1. NOTHING WILL STOP THE ENGINE, any guesses to why pulling the key thing out didnt work?
2. Engine over revs at full throttle,no choke, how do I correct this???
3.throttle sticks, even after spraying generous amounts of WD 40 and carb cleaner on it Any suggestions on how to fix this?
AND FINALLY, 4. Other then over-revving engine sounds great, and starts easy!!!!!!!
Sorry for the long post, my hands started walkin and didnt want to stop
ANY HELP ON ANY OF THE PROBLEMS WOULD BE MUCH APPRECIATED!!!!
Thanks,
Adam 8)
Date: 6 Dec 2006 9:07 pm
Great progress..
For the key, the plastic key keeps two metal contacts apart.
When they come together they ground out the primary of the coil.
There should be one wire going to the primary of the coil and another to ground.
The ground wire sometimes is just a .250" quick connect that doesn't make it back on during re-assembly. (been there done that).
Or the contacts could be real dirty or full of oxidation or rusted.
The ones I've seen are very basic, you should be able to see the two pieces of metal held apart by the key, if they are still there.
Maybe one of the wires are broken , to / from their destinations?
For the rest, sorry, not sure.
I would be purely guessing about linkages and governors.
Date: 6 Dec 2006 9:24 pm
Thanks ramit, There is one wire, thats medium thinkness running from the switch, to a skrew on the engine. thats it, but when I did the test, the box that covers the carb wasnt screwed on it was just kind of sitting in place, and I doubt it would of been able to make contact through that, could this be the problem? does the box connected to the rest of the engine, make the other part of the connection? :?: :?: :?: :?: :? :?
Just takin a wild guess here. Your probable right about the rust in the switch to.
I might just replace it with a key switch that you actually turn, is this poosible, and would it help???
thanks,
Adam 8)
Date: 6 Dec 2006 9:36 pm
launboy wrote:
Thanks ramit, There is one wire, thats medium thinkness running from the switch, to a skrew on the engine. thats it, but when I did the test, the box that covers the carb wasnt screwed on it was just kind of sitting in place, and I doubt it would of been able to make contact through that, could this be the problem? does the box connected to the rest of the engine, make the other part of the connection? :?: :?: :?: :?: :? :?
Just takin a wild guess here. Your probable right about the rust in the switch to.
I might just replace it with a key switch that you actually turn, is this poosible, and would it help???
thanks,
Adam 8)
That wire hanging, if it was originally screwed to the block, and the other wire goes still goes to the coil.. the switch probably didn't work cause the wire wasn't screwed to the block.
Date: 7 Dec 2006 12:26 am
launboy wrote:
when I did the test, the box that covers the carb wasnt screwed on it was just kind of sitting in place, and I doubt it would of been able to make contact through that, could this be the problem? does the box connected to the rest of the engine, make the other part of the connection? :?: :?
Launboy - the box being loose will NOT make a difference. Why? The connections are actually on the throttle assembly which is bolted to the flywheel cover. I would just take some sandpaper & clean the metal where the 2 contacts reside. Common problem.
As for your over-revving concerns (items #2 & 3) they are related. You must loosen up the throttle shaft/plate. Use PB Blaster (NOT WD40!) & then you will have to work the throttle shaft by hand. Keep soaking it with PB while doing this. Eventually it will free up. Just be patient & don't use too much force.
You're doing well - some simple work will get your Snapper back in shape!
Marty
Date: 7 Dec 2006 1:11 am
ok, thanks guys for all of the imput! Marty, can you get PB Blaster anywhere, like WD 40 or is it something special??
Thanks,
Adam 8)
Date: 7 Dec 2006 2:43 am
Hi launboy
Quote:
Sprayed a generous amount of starter fluid into air intake
Just my :tc: my friend, I hear it is a big no, no to use starter fluid. I am not sure of what exactly the issue is about it but I would try to refrain from that practice if at all possible. Maybe one of our more knowledgeable colleagues could explain to us why :?:
As for your other issues, sorry... not much help beyond whats already been said. Looks like a nice brute of a machine though.
Date: 7 Dec 2006 2:52 am
launboy wrote:
Marty, can you get PB Blaster anywhere, like WD 40 or is it something special??
Adam - you can get PB at Wal-Mart, I think its about $4 a can. It works VERY well. I always keep a few cans handy...
Marty
Date: 7 Dec 2006 2:56 am
Yukon wrote:
I hear it is a big no, no to use starter fluid. I am not sure of what exactly the issue is about it but I would try to refrain from that practice if at all possible. Maybe one of our more knowledgeable colleagues could explain to us why :?:
My take on starting fluid is that its ok to use it on a 4 cycle engine, but NOT on a 2 cycle engine. Reason is that starting fluid has no oil in it, so if you run a 2 cycle engine on starting fluid alone, you are robbing the engine of the lubrication it needs. Result can be piston/cylinder wall scoring or even an engine siezure. Not good! :shock:
Marty
Date: 7 Dec 2006 9:05 am
Majorxlr8n wrote:
Yukon wrote:
I hear it is a big no, no to use starter fluid. I am not sure of what exactly the issue is about it but I would try to refrain from that practice if at all possible. Maybe one of our more knowledgeable colleagues could explain to us why :?:
My take on starting fluid is that its ok to use it on a 4 cycle engine, but NOT on a 2 cycle engine. Reason is that starting fluid has no oil in it, so if you run a 2 cycle engine on starting fluid alone, you are robbing the engine of the lubrication it needs. Result can be piston/cylinder wall scoring or even an engine siezure. Not good! :shock:
Marty
Ahhh, I see, so in laymens terms I guess it would mean if she takes a gas/oil mix don't use starter fluid :?: Thanks for the insight!!
oh my gawd! :shock: I have been floating around this site since like 2am!... lots of good reading and lost in a time warp (breaks into the rocky horror picture show dance... it's just a jump.... to the left....) :wink:
Date: 7 Dec 2006 5:17 pm
Thanks guys, Yeah, a friend of mine said that starter fluid was bad one time when I was over at his house and his rider wouldn't start. But now that I know its safe on 4 cycle, and just not 2 cycle, I'll have to let him know. It makes perfect sense to me with the no oil thing... I wonder if they make one especially for 2-cycle engines, with a bit of oil added :?: will have to look into that...
Thanks, well out to work on the snowblower, and maybe to walmart for some PB...
Adam
Date: 8 Dec 2006 11:41 am
launboy wrote:
Thanks guys, Yeah, a friend of mine said that starter fluid was bad one time when I was over at his house and his rider wouldn't start. But now that I know its safe on 4 cycle, and just not 2 cycle, I'll have to let him know. It makes perfect sense to me with the no oil thing... I wonder if they make one especially for 2-cycle engines, with a bit of oil added :?: will have to look into that...
Thanks, well out to work on the snowblower, and maybe to walmart for some PB...
Adam
Well.........I wouldn't say that it is SAFE but I guess you could use it very sparingly in a 4 cycle only.
Proper maintenance should mean that you NEVER have to use this type of product in the first place.
It causes the cylinder to overheat quickly and can cause scoring. Remember, lubricating oil will not get there quick enough.
My father had a small engine repair shop for many years. Actually, he would refuse to work on equipment that had had starter fluid sprayed into them by weekend mechanics.
I know of a number of auto mechanics that will refuse vehicles exposed to that stuff too.
:tc:
Ken
:)
Date: 8 Dec 2006 6:22 pm
ok well then I guess no starter fluid. I just did that to see if it would even start. But, now that it has started for the first time in two years, I can start it on the second or third pull usually without starter fluid.