Forums Archive Index > Outdoor Power Equipment > doesnt anyone use anti sieze compound?

Author: spottedpony

Date: 16 Dec 2005 1:00 pm

with all the posts we see occasionally about pins, bolts shafts ets frozen or rusted in place, why not consider stocking a can of anti sieze compound along with other maintence type products. (penatrating oil and such) I use Fel Pro C5A (i bought a 1 lb can about 25 years ago & its still 1/4 full) which is good for all applications ive run into, from nuts and bolts, lug nuts, to pins, shafts through bushings etc. and it wont "cook off" at high temps such as are found on exaust manifold bolts or other similar high temp applications, Ive even used it on muffler/exaust pipe joints that used clamps instead of welding. I have never had a rust related disassembly problem anywhere ive used it. a good example of how effective it is, this fall i had to replace a worn U joint on a pto driven bush hog, when i pulled the drive shaft off the bush hog gear box not only did the shear bolt fall out after nut removal, i pulled the yolk off the gearbox shaft by hand, it didnt even take a tap with a hammer & this thing has been together for several years. a few bucks for a can of this stuff and a couple of hours of "pre rust" maintence on potential problem areas would save hours of labor and frustration down the road.

and for those parts some rust removal is necessary for disassembly ive used this method a few times with great success Electrolytic Rust Removal

Author: robmints

Date: 16 Dec 2005 1:54 pm

Great point SP. I use no-seize on most everything. Just on the lug bolts and other fasteners make sure to check the wet torque so you don't over tighten.

I was going to ask about rust removal, someone told me about molasses. Raw with the sulphur still in it. Something about conversion and the process doesn't remove material. Takes a week or two though. Anybody know anything?

Author: krislu

Date: 16 Dec 2005 2:34 pm

Sure I do. I use it on bolts that secure the exhaust header on. Everybody should have a bottle on hand. - Kris :D

Author: Bill_D

Date: 16 Dec 2005 7:52 pm

I have a tub on hand, that I've had for probably 8-10 years now. I use it also on lugs anytime I rotate or change a flat. Good on any application that you know you are going to remove someday down the road. Not to mention the obvious, that it's just plain yummy as well. :lol:

Author: plowboy

Date: 16 Dec 2005 7:57 pm

Are some types better or worst for specific types of metal?

Author: robmints

Date: 16 Dec 2005 8:19 pm

http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/loctite_us/index.cfm?&pageid=114&layout=3

type in anti-seize in the product finder box

or

http://www.mcmaster.com/

and type anti-seize in the product finder box

I like the mc master carr way, it's easier.

Author: krislu

Date: 16 Dec 2005 10:12 pm

Mints- Just go to your local auto parts store. They'll have it. - Kris :D

Author: robmints

Date: 17 Dec 2005 7:33 am

krislu wrote:
Mints- Just go to your local auto parts store. They'll have it. - Kris :D

I just use mc master a lot to read about the differences. Most all of the anti-sieze stuff is nasty when it gets on you, it transfers to everything. you get it on stuff where you did not even know you had stuff. The marine stuff might be the worst though, but it does a good job. Most of the time I just use plain jane.

Author: Garandman

Date: 17 Dec 2005 8:31 am

Bill_D wrote:
I have a tub on hand, that I've had for probably 8-10 years now. I use it also on lugs anytime I rotate or change a flat. Good on any application that you know you are going to remove someday down the road. ////
That's one place anti-seize is not recommended for use. First, the factory torque specs don't include the use of compound so the lugs are often overtorqued. Second, any excess may find its way to the rotors or other braking components.

Folks who do a lot of wheel changing and want to use it put a tiny amount on the bottom of the threads.

I just take out the dipstick and put a drop of motor oil on them,if they are showing signs of corrosion.

Author: robmints

Date: 17 Dec 2005 8:54 am

Garand,

You can ask the manufacturer for a wet torque. I think most of the time it is about 20-25 percent less than the dry torque. I usually just make sure I put it on the threads. The friction on a fastener is mostly under the head or where it is compressing. So I will put a good very thin coating on the wheel hub and a very little bit on just the threads of the lug bolts or nuts and tighten to about 90 percent of the dry torque spec. Check with the manufacturer.

Where you lube is just as important as what you lube with. When you use oil you should still follow a wet torque, especially if you get the oil under the head.

I think you can find assembly products that are made to inhibit corrosion but not effect torque specs, I don't use them though.

You get in a catch 22 where you might over torque or not be able to get the bolt or nut off. So I lube and am very careful of the proper torque. Check with the manufacturer.

Author: robmints

Date: 17 Dec 2005 8:55 am

Kris,

Can you adjust that baby down a bit. She is a beauty, but she is a little big.

Author: krislu

Date: 17 Dec 2005 8:57 am

Garandman wrote:
Bill_D wrote:
I have a tub on hand, that I've had for probably 8-10 years now. I use it also on lugs anytime I rotate or change a flat. Good on any application that you know you are going to remove someday down the road. ////
That's one place anti-seize is not recommended for use. First, the factory torque specs don't include the use of compound so the lugs are often overtorqued. Second, any excess may find its way to the rotors or other braking components.

Folks who do a lot of wheel changing and want to use it put a tiny amount on the bottom of the threads.

I just take out the dipstick and put a drop of motor oil on them,if they are showing signs of corrosion.

I was at the tire shop and I saw a guy with a spray can of anti sieze who before he mounted the 4 new tires on someone's car drowned the whole disc rotor assy in it. He wiped off the rotor and then mounted the tires. These lugs were soaked. I wonder if when this guy drove away the wheels stayed on the car. :shock: - Kris :D

Author: spottedpony

Date: 17 Dec 2005 11:29 am

Quote:
That's one place anti-seize is not recommended for use. First, the factory torque specs don't include the use of compound so the lugs are often overtorqued. Second, any excess may find its way to the rotors or other braking components.

Folks who do a lot of wheel changing and want to use it put a tiny amount on the bottom of the threads.

I just take out the dipstick and put a drop of motor oil on them,if they are showing signs of corrosion.

I've used anti sieze on wheel lugs for many many years now with no problems, but like any other product it can be overused. Unlike oil or grease on lugs which will eventually collect dust and grime & potentially causing further problems , anti sieze is not a lubricant, and the "carrier" dissapates to leave a dry protective coating on the parts its applied to., when a fastener is tightened down it actually penitrates into the metal to provide a barrier against corrosion. after a short period of time it will actually have "dried" out leaving only the protective coating on the fastener its been applied to. the only application ive never tried using anti sieze is in applications where loc tite is recommended.

as stated in an earlier post this stuff is messy but like the old brylcream hair cream commercials on tv many years ago "a little dab'l do ya"

Author: mml4

Date: 18 Dec 2005 7:43 am

Hi Guys-
For the last ten years or so I have put a small application on the threads of spark plugs when I change them. I never did like the feel of a plug going into or out of an Aluminum head.

Marc

Author: snowshoveler

Date: 18 Dec 2005 8:13 am

impeller shaft
wheel axle
MUFFLER BOLTS...especially on a tecumseh
and the day after i use never seize i usually find the stuff everywhere i have been since.
man does it ever travel well
we joke that it will be on your pillow in the morning when you wake up cause it gets everywhere.
chris

Author: Garandman

Date: 18 Dec 2005 12:34 pm

When I changed the carb on my HMSK80 I took out the muffler bolts and put Nevr Seize on them.

I'm pretty sure the can I'm using was purchased in 1970. So it's the same age as the snow blower.

Author: RalphS
Subject: Anti-Seize

Date: 19 Dec 2005 11:17 pm

My rule of thumb is anything I (can) take apart gets either anti-seize or medium-strength Loctite when it goes back together. Except anything into plastic.
Most of the time it's anti-seize. I feel that years from now someone (maybe me) is going to have to take it apart again.
I have always used anti-seize (sparingly) on lug nuts, lug bolts, and spark plugs. I have experienced a spark plug seized in an aluminum head.
I also smear a film (just enough to give it some silver color) on the mating face between the wheel hub and the backside of alloy wheels. I have had the unpleasant task of trying to free an alloy wheel corroded onto a steel hub more than once.
That's my two cents.

Author: Bobby_P

Date: 20 Dec 2005 12:35 am

I agree with Krislu