Forums Archive Index > Outdoor Power Equipment > Oil change recommendations

Author: Freddy

Date: 13 Dec 2005 8:58 pm

Just got a new Simplicity 8560, really happy with its compact, solid-built power.

Any recommendations for oil change regimes? Spring/Fall, regular vs. syn, flush with regular etc. I really want to take proper care of this machine.

By the way hello.

Your friend, Freddy.

Author: Highwind

Date: 13 Dec 2005 9:15 pm

I change mine in the spring. That way it doesn't sit there all summer with dirty oil, and it is all ready to go in the fall so if we get an early start to winter, I'm not out there changing it in the cold.

Author: ramit

Date: 13 Dec 2005 10:07 pm

I'm with HW on that.
The warm oil will carry out the containments.
And the fresh oil will have fresh un-used, full strength, additives that are there to fight corrosion and such. So you know you have the best protection. Check as to what the manufacturer suggests regarding oil, dino vs syn. And if they allow syn , only after a good full break in.
I just don't rightly know what a good breakin period is now adays on an OPE engine !

Due to the great lubrication of the syn oil, if used from the start, proper break in can not happen. So it's always advised not to use syn oil for the breakin period on any engine.
Most gas cars and trucks, thats about 5K - 8K miles.
As I mentioned, in hours, I don't know what it is for an OPE engine.
Maybe 2-4 hours? (a guess).

Author: Chris S

Date: 13 Dec 2005 11:04 pm

Welcome to the forum,
I broke my Honda in for two storms and then changed to syn and have never looked back.
If you can only get to it once a year I agree with the others, Spring.
C

Author: Mountain Man

Date: 13 Dec 2005 11:12 pm

2 good storms , or my Tecumseh manual says first 2 hours of use.

Author: Bobby_P

Date: 13 Dec 2005 11:13 pm

Don't hit your head on the wall! when oil's turning in to deep brown it's time to change oil :) you can practice yourself too by smelling fresh oil and black oil you'll see the difference I don't think that oil changing=months


Bobby

Author: Bill_D

Date: 13 Dec 2005 11:21 pm

Mobil 1 5W30 Synthetic for mine. I change it only once a year. I do it late fall just before the season starts, along w/ a new spark plug as well.

Author: jubol

Date: 14 Dec 2005 4:28 am

:D Bill D,

Change your oil in the spring!

reason, gets rid of the acids that form in the oil when engines run.

If you do it in the spring, fresh oil, no acids!!

Fred

Author: Bill_D

Date: 14 Dec 2005 7:26 am

But it never runs until after I change it anyways, :?: :?: :?:

Author: jubol

Date: 14 Dec 2005 7:28 am

Bill,
But the acids sit all of spring thru late fall, eating away metal!!!
Fred

Author: Freddy

Date: 14 Dec 2005 7:43 am

On another forum, somebody suggested a change in the spring, and then changing that summer oil for fresh in the fall due to contamination from engine over the summer while it sat there. What do you think about that?

Also somebody suggested that you should flush the system during an oil change by draining the dirty oil, filling with cheap 5W30 and warming engine, draining that, and then filling with syn. What do you think about that?

Thank you for your help.

Your friend, Freddy

Author: jubol

Date: 14 Dec 2005 8:20 am

:D Freddy,
That is good also, gets rid of the acids!
I do that with my riding lawnmower.
Fred

Author: ramit

Date: 14 Dec 2005 8:54 am

Bill_D wrote:
But it never runs until after I change it anyways, :?: :?: :?:

Changing out the old oil carries out the deposits and acids genereated from the moisture and compustion byproducts left suspended in the old oil.
The flush idea sounds good.

Then refilling with fresh unused oil and pickeling the engine protects during storage.
The fresh oil has the fresh full strength additives ready to work and protect the machine.

To protect the upper head,when I run the tank dry, that last little bit, I add about 50% marval mystery oil. After the tank runs dry and I attempt to restart it again to get rid of the last bit in the bowl (if it doesn't have a drain), I then pull the plug and put a few good ounces of fresh oil down into the head and slowly rotate the crank and then put the plug back in.
I would change the plug after getting it started and unpickeling it for the winter.

Author: mml4

Date: 15 Dec 2005 6:22 am

Hi Guys!
Freddy- Congratulations on the new Simplicity! I bought one for my son as a gift last spring and there was a sign in the shop indicating that you will double your engine warranty by using the Simplicity brand synthetic oil. I had to get the dealer to order it but it seemed like a cheap way to get an extended warranty.
Marc

Author: ramit

Date: 15 Dec 2005 8:47 am

Marc,
Want to adopt me?
My dad never bought me a snowblower!

Thats' great input... with it just being one quart or so a year, what cheap insurance, and it's synthetic too !

Author: Termy

Date: 15 Dec 2005 5:29 pm

In my opinion every 100 hours of operation is a good time to change the oil. :wink:

Author: krislu

Date: 15 Dec 2005 5:50 pm

I change the oil every September. Never had any problems. - Kris :D

Author: Marshall

Date: 15 Dec 2005 6:13 pm

I like getting the old crap out of my OPE for the winter. All my OPE is heavy summer use though. Mobile 1, changed roughly every 25-50 hours, depending on dusty conditions, is to my liking. My stuff will get run a couple of three times through the winter at least. I try to never let my OPE go more than 4-5 weeks without getting started, even if it's just to run for 5 or 10 minutes. I also leave stabilized fuel in them.

Author: buttlint

Date: 15 Dec 2005 6:48 pm

I never change mine.
I just keep adding too it.
It helps thicken it....so it doesnt leak out of the gaskets and seals.

Author: Highwind

Date: 15 Dec 2005 7:18 pm

buttlint wrote:
I never change mine.
I just keep adding too it.
It helps thicken it....so it doesnt leak out of the gaskets and seals.


Spoken like a true mechanic. Wellll. ...one trying to generate more work so he can afford an extra day's admission to the local indoor pool for he and his wife, with his beach umbrella, pina colada and sun lamp pretending he is in Hawaii.

Author: buttlint

Date: 15 Dec 2005 9:56 pm

Highwind wrote:
buttlint wrote:
I never change mine.
I just keep adding too it.
It helps thicken it....so it doesnt leak out of the gaskets and seals.


Spoken like a true mechanic. Wellll. ...one trying to generate more work so he can afford an extra day's admission to the local indoor pool for he and his wife, with his beach umbrella, pina colada and sun lamp pretending he is in Hawaii.
Let's not forget that I have a 9 1/2", 5 lb. potato tucked in the front of my speedo that says, "just change it when it starts too look growdy."
Do what the owners manual tells you too do....It's overkill...but at least all will be able too sleep at night.
Antiques Roadshow...2050. :shock: "I have a 2003 Toro Recycler....Mint condition....My grandfather changed the oil religously for the last 47 years"......."AM I RICH!"

Author: SnowPro

Date: 16 Dec 2005 4:36 pm

ramit wrote:
Check as to what the manufacturer suggests regarding oil, dino vs syn. And if they allow syn , only after a good full break in.
I just don't rightly know what a good breakin period is now adays on an OPE engine !

Due to the great lubrication of the syn oil, if used from the start, proper break in can not happen. So it's always advised not to use syn oil for the breakin period on any engine.


I respectfully disagree. Briggs strongly reccomends syn oil in the intek engines. Checked with them and they said to run syn oil from day 1.

So.........Mobil 1 5w30 has been in ALL of my Intek Snow engines from day 1. Changed it at about 5 hours, as instructed, and about every 50 hours after that.
My oldest engine has been run over 4000 times now and it is as powerful as the day I got it. The other engines are catching up, and they all start first pull and run smooth.
If that is not a testament to synthetic oil and the INTEK SNOW engines, then, I don't know what is.

Here is another little "nugget" for you boys and girls..........The factory installed platinum plugs are STILL IN USE!! :shock: :shock:
They are still looking great, nice tan colour, sharp edges, and gapped proper. I check the gap, but have never adjusted them since day 1. Like I said, the engines still start first pull, why change them? I have new ones on the shelf, ready to go........at some point I guess! :wink:

Now.............that being said, you can bet I will likely have a failure because of all this bragging! :lol:

Ken
:D

Author: Marshall

Date: 16 Dec 2005 5:21 pm

I've run Mobil 1 one from the start in my Kohlers. Many cars come from the factory with full synthetic today.

Author: jubol

Date: 16 Dec 2005 5:29 pm

:shock: My Wife's 06 BMW, gets an oil change at 15,000 miles or once a year, which ever comes first!!

That should tell you folks how good "Man Made Oils" are !!!

Fred 8)

Author: SnowPro

Date: 16 Dec 2005 7:29 pm

jubol wrote:
:shock: My Wife's 06 BMW, gets an oil change at 15,000 miles or once a year, which ever comes first!!

That should tell you folks how good "Man Made Oils" are !!!

Fred 8)

That's exactly the same as my wife's Passat. In fact, the syn. oil that goes in is marked as factory approved for BMW, Mercedes and Audi/VW.

Ken
:)

Author: robmints

Date: 16 Dec 2005 7:40 pm

SnowPro wrote:
jubol wrote:
:shock: My Wife's 06 BMW, gets an oil change at 15,000 miles or once a year, which ever comes first!!

That should tell you folks how good "Man Made Oils" are !!!

Fred 8)

That's exactly the same as my wife's Passat. In fact, the syn. oil that goes in is marked as factory approved for BMW, Mercedes and Audi/VW.

Ken
:)

That's that fancy 5w40 stuff in those audi's. We have a Passat. Runs well, handles great, comfortable inside, little stuff is always breaking, engine light comes on about 3 times a year, sometimes for good reason, sometimes not. I might own another one just because I have had VWs since 1977 when I got a 72 super beetle, but I would not recommend one to anybody.

Author: robmints

Date: 16 Dec 2005 7:46 pm

Oh yeah. I use the amsoil 5w40 that they make just for vw, saab and the others that use that grade. Seems fine. My cousin's 1.8T got the sludge. So if you have one, change the oil with the good stuff, the sludge is not just a rumor, and it will create a boat anchor real quick.