"Overhaulin" 1970 & 1995 Ariens Sno Thro
Forums Archive Index > Outdoor Power Equipment > "Overhaulin" 1970 & 1995 Ariens Sno Thro
Author: Garandman
Date: 21 Aug 2005 12:40 am
Q. What do you do with a 1970 Ariens 5hp snow blower that has gotten a little tired and rusty?
A. Think, "What would Tim the Toolman do?"
My dad's old snowblower did a lot of work last season in Boston but was getting tired. Largely because of this sentimental attachment, I decided to rebuild it although I now have a much newer ST824. So with some help here and the Ariens manuals, I decided to rebuild it to make it more usable, with a "design life" of 15 more years.
The advantage of these machines is that they are very simple and greatly overdesigned. Almost all parts are readily available from dealers and online. Many parts have been superceded by newer designs, but they are backwards compatible for the most part. They have 12" impellers and cast iron auger housings, so they are extremely tough.
These machines are old enough that you can buy "parts machines" as well - I got one in excellent condition but with a blown engine for $75 on eBay and bought one less auger and engine for less than $50. Because I took off a working engine, I'll be able to sell the second machine for $125 to $250, recouping some of the costs. It turned out to be quite helpful to have a second machine during reassembly when instructions or my pictures weren't completely clear.
The disadvantages are that the sub-7hp machines have a locked axle - great for traction, not so great for manuevering (Snow Hog tires help turning as the tread deflects more). Also, these machines have an auger that's engaged, or not - there is no quick way to stop the auger except to kill the engine.
Newer models have some advantages which should not be overlooked. Most newer models have means to quickly stop the auger - some even have a brake for instant stop. This could be an important safety feature although snowblower injuries don't seem to be too prevelant. Many of them have some way to unlock the wheel to improve manueverability. One thing I did not find: despite frequent statements to the contrary Ariens machines I measure up to late 90's manufacture use the same gage sheet metal as this 1970 machine. I haven't brought my digital calipers to a dealer to measure the new ones, as the local dealer considers me peculiar enough already.....The shape of the newer housings is probably more efficient, and the discharge chutes are taller as well.
Total expenditure for the project including paint and supplies is around $400, but that includes new engine; friction disk; tires and tubes; bearing for the auger shaft; auger bushings; wheel bushings; feather, Woodruff, and cotter pins; scraper blade and runners. I ordered the parts and owner's manual from Ariens, and was able to purchase a 1979 dealer service manual (for the entire product line, including Sno Thro)on eBay for about $10. [BTW, many people are selling copies of Ariens manuals on eBay for about what Ariens charges. I emailed Ariens with the seller ID's of several people doing this regulary, but got no response. Ariens could register with eBay so that they would not be allowed to do so.]
I stripped the unit down to nuts and bolts and put parts in plastic zip lock bags by sub assembly.
The blower housing was sent off for welding, then painted. In the meantime I ground off the rust from the exterior of the tractor housing, repainted it, and reassembled it with all new bushings, feather pins, etc.
Tractor prior to restoration:
After:
The axle bushings were completely worn out:
The Auger bushings were so badly worn that the holders were worn and had to be replaced with the new stamped steel version.
Author: Garandman
Date: 21 Aug 2005 12:46 am
The blower housing was cracked at the bottom corners and well rusted, so I sanded off the rust and applied a neutralizer, before sending it off for welding:
Since it was going to the welder, I cut off the extension for the Chute Control Crank so it could be moved to a better location for the new installation, which required U-Joints.
After repainting with primer and several coats of enamal and two clear coats, it looks a lot better. I used Duplicolor engine enamal DE1620 (Chevrolet Engine Orange) and a Ford color, Wimbledon White lacquer.
Author: Garandman
Date: 21 Aug 2005 12:53 am
Another change was replacement of the old turf pattern tires and chains with a new set of 5" wide Carlisle Snow Hogs. Here's a comparison with the standard width 4.1" tire.
The original engine, a Tecumseh H50, still ran well but I wanted more power for the heavy wet snow we often get here, being a few hundred yards from the ocean. I bought an Intek Snow 7.5 with electric start and alternator output for less than $300, delivered. The Intek Snow uses the same mounting hole location but requires longer bolts. The 3/4" shaft is in the same location, so fitup is easy. Here's the comparison.
Author: AJace
Date: 21 Aug 2005 12:57 am
Thanks for moving this over from Abbys. I'm sure much time and patience was put into this creation. I look forward to see the final result in detail. :)
Author: Garandman
Date: 21 Aug 2005 12:59 am
AJace wrote:
Thanks for moving this over from Abbys. I'm sure much time and patience was put into this creation. I look forward to see the final result in detail. :) Just how much more detailed pictures do you expect :lol: ? I've deleted all the messages and pictures in the original thread at the old site and added new ones.
All that's left to do is install the auger. One of the Rakes was frozen to the axle - a very common problem with old snowblowers. Heating did no good, so eventually I slit the shaft with a Dremel tool. Now it's gone to a shop with a 40 ton press and a torch, so it will come off.
Here's the semi-complete machine. Unfortunately the original decals are no longer available, the only parts I haven't been able to get.
This model had a straight Chute Crank. I cut two (one wasn't long enough) to the lengths on my 824 and fabricated a bracket. I purchased aftermarket ujoints becasue Ariens charges a lot for them.
Author: AJace
Date: 21 Aug 2005 1:05 am
oooo, very very nice. After the auger installation, I guess you are going to wax it. I've never taken out an auger or installed one, but I gues it's fairly simple, a 30 minute to 1 hour job? The Ariens hubcaps stand out for sure.
Author: Garandman
Date: 21 Aug 2005 1:12 am
AJace wrote:
....I've never taken out an auger or installed one, but I gues it's fairly simple, a 30 minute to 1 hour job? The Ariens hubcaps stand out for sure.
Removing the auger is very easy. There is a 1/2" bolt (3/4" wrench) on each end that has to be removed. Then you remove three nuts and the bearing support pulls out. At that point you can pull the auger straight off the splined shaft.
When my wife questioned the amount of effort put into each step - like stripping the Tractor Frame of every nut and bolt to paint it inside and out - I showed her the hubcaps. How could you cut corners on a machine where the people who built it made, stamped, three color hubcaps like this? Wouldn't you like the people who developed details like that?
So she understood why I bought a partial machine in VT - just to get the hubcaps.
Author: faithfulFrank
Date: 21 Aug 2005 6:29 am
Dear Garandman,
That is awesome! I'm very impressed!
Frank D.
Author: Richie
Date: 21 Aug 2005 10:05 am
That's the way to restore a snowblower. Very impressive and your attention to detail is very obvious. Great job!
BTW...I miss my "thumbs up" emoticons
Author: Marshall
Date: 21 Aug 2005 12:17 pm
That's a fantastic looking restore!
Author: Blue99
Date: 21 Aug 2005 12:58 pm
A very nice job, Garandman, and thanks for posting all the pics!
Yes, 3 color painted components more commonly reflect the manufacturing practices of the 60's thru 70's. An expensive operation, nowdays, with the associated health & materials/solvents hazards connected with any painting operation.
Use of decals probably became more popular during the 80's or so, what does anybody think?
What do you view is the primary performance gain with the 7.5 hp engine upgrade? The rpm's will hold up with heavy, wet snow?
Author: Highwind
Date: 21 Aug 2005 1:13 pm
Nice work there! Nothing like seeing an older machine restored and given new life.
Author: ramit
Date: 21 Aug 2005 2:43 pm
Nice......
Nothing like old heavy metal.
Author: dave___in___ct
Date: 21 Aug 2005 7:02 pm
I can't see the pictures ! :cry: :cry: :cry:
The ole' Ariens iron is great... !
Dave...
Author: Chris S
Date: 21 Aug 2005 9:09 pm
That is a nice machine. Nice job. You and Marty should go into buisiness lol....
C
Author: krislu
Subject: Ariens
Date: 21 Aug 2005 9:55 pm
Awesome restoration ! - Kris :D
Author: dave___in___ct
Date: 22 Aug 2005 8:36 am
Now I see the pictures... it's a beauty !
Excellent job !
Dave...
Author: ramit
Date: 26 Aug 2005 8:19 am
I just noticed, what are the two levers on the right hand side of the machine, just above the wheel, slightly infront of the wheel?
Author: Garandman
Date: 26 Aug 2005 1:06 pm
ramit wrote:
I just noticed, what are the two levers on the right hand side of the machine, just above the wheel, slightly infront of the wheel?
On the older Ariens machines, the inner lever engages the auger when rotated forward.
The outer lever is the clutch. It is attached to a spring-loaded idler pulley that tightens the drive belt around the pulleys when engaged. With the lever forward, it drives the auger: with the lever back, it just drives the tractor, allowing you to transport the pachine etc.
The tractor is a distinct assembly, and Ariens sold other power options for the same drive assembly, like a mower. The wheels are locked to the axle with feather pins on this model, so there is no differential effect. 7hp and up had a diferential or wheel unlock. This was originally a 5hp so no such luck. That's also why it is so simple, and will last 50 years.
There are a few pieces of plastic on this machine. The handgrips. The belt cover is thermoformed. The new engine has substantially more plastic given the original had none.
Author: AJace
Date: 26 Aug 2005 2:03 pm
The old machine's engine has pieces of plastic on it, the gas cap. And looking closer is the gas tank plastic too? :wink: :D
Author: Garandman
Date: 26 Aug 2005 3:32 pm
AJace wrote:
The old machine's engine has pieces of plastic on it, the gas cap. And looking closer is the gas tank plastic too?
Not on that one. The pull handle and insulation is a polymer. There are some acetal, nylon or polypropylene bushings I'd guess, if I was dealing with a Sharpshooter.....
Author: Garandman
Date: 31 Aug 2005 11:02 am
Just fired up the engine this morning. Hit the primer button, put the choke on, and it started first pull.
The Siratech tachometer/sirometer gave full rpms at 3,600. I'll check that with an electronic tachometer later.
This engine is very quiet at idle and noticably quieter than the old H50 at full rpm. I hope to have an aural comparison in October before I sell the old engine.
Here's the rear view showing the roting of the chute crank. I used the original eyebotl and hole, flipped and bent at an angle. Too bad there isn't a Concourse d'Elegance for old snowblowers......
While I'm waiting on the auger for this one, I've started cleaning up the ST824 (model #924050) I bought last spring for $212.75 on eBay with a replacement 8hp engine that's only 3 seasons old. The owner was quite conscientious about spraying over bare metal, but not at all conscientious about removing or neutralizing the rust first, so it needs some refinishing. It also needs new skids and scraper bar, and I'll likely change the belts. I'm also putting on one of the impeller kits. I'll also put an electric start just for grins, it starts fine.
Author: Garandman
Date: 23 Oct 2005 8:12 am
The ST824 is just about done. The blower housing, chute and wheels were stripped, rust neutralized, and repainted. New Snow Hog tires were fitted.
Here's the drive unit before I changed the friction disc. Notice there is some rubber buildup on the drive disc - I rubbed it off with a sponge, then wiped the disc down with acetone to remove any grease or contamination.
The friction disc is trivially easy to replace. Disconnect the shift link, slide the carrier over and you can unbolt it, pull it out, and slip the new one in. Much easier than the old machine.
Author: snowshoveler
Date: 23 Oct 2005 10:41 am
i really like it when i see an older good quality machine given a new lease on life.
im thinking that they will work as good or probably better than they did when new.
sure look good.
later chris
Author: Walt
Date: 23 Oct 2005 1:09 pm
Garandman,
That is beautiful. After putting all that labor into the restoration, you couldn't sell it for less than a "classic car" (but the price would be worth it). And if I had put all that effort into restoration I would be hard pressed to drive it into a salt filled snowbank; other than to have the joy of seeing the rewards of my efforts at work.
Great work :!:
Walt
Author: Garandman
Date: 24 Oct 2005 6:24 am
I don't have any plans on seliing it, as it was my father's and thus has some nostalgic value. I gave it to my brother because the ST824 has bigger wheels so it goes over curbs better. My brother has a straight driveway where this machine will do a terrific job, expecially compared to the aging Toro they're using now.
Author: Garandman
Date: 10 Nov 2005 6:10 pm
Here's the 824 after painting the auger assembly and blower housing; replacing the friction disk; new belts; replacing the tires with 4.80x8 Snow hogs.; replacing the scraper bar and skids. I used a fair amount of new hardware. Total cost is now $325. I have a new electric starter but don't think I need it so I haven't installed it yet.
Still to do is bolt on the handle for the chute deflector and replace some of the decals.
Before:
After
Author: Marshall
Date: 10 Nov 2005 6:44 pm
You do good work!
Author: ramit
Date: 10 Nov 2005 8:09 pm
Looks too good to use !
Author: snowshoveler
Date: 10 Nov 2005 8:23 pm
looking better all the time.
if you dont mind me asking ,how did you paint it and what was the actual color.
im curious because it looks very close to the color of my powerking tractor and it needs more than a little paint.
later chris
Author: Garandman
Date: 10 Nov 2005 10:23 pm
snowshoveler wrote:
looking better all the time.
if you dont mind me asking ,how did you paint it and what was the actual color.
im curious because it looks very close to the color of my powerking tractor and it needs more than a little paint.
later chris
It's Duplicolor DE1620 Chevrolet Orange engine enamal, $3.75 per can at WalMart or about $5 at auto parts stores.
The skid is an OEM part so as you can see th color match is just about perfect. I painted the rakes with Rustoleum black because it seems to be extremely durable.
I didn't repaint the tractor as it has little rust (though some grease spots). I did replace the bottom cover, which was quite rusty.
Author: Garandman
Date: 11 Nov 2005 12:07 pm
Here's how I fixed the frozen rake problem. On first try I took out the shear pin and zerks, and squirted penetrating oil anywhere I could. Then I put a big gear puller on the end and tensioned it progressively - until it popped off without moving the rake on the shaft.
Then I had it put in a 40 ton hydraulic press to be pressed out. The guy stopped without success because it appeared it would deform before moving.
So, the last act was to slit the tube lengthwise with a Dremel tool, which took about 20 minutes. I went right down to the shaft. Then it was put back into the 40 ton press and heated with a torch.
I had two with this problem. On one the rake had clearly not been rotated on the shaft to spread the lube and was well rusted.The other showed evidence of lube but was still mighty tight.
The moral of the story is to make sure you lube the auger shaft each season, and rotate the rakes on the shaft so they don't rust together.
Probably true for just about any make and model.
Author: dave___in___ct
Date: 11 Nov 2005 1:48 pm
Innovative solution... and good advice !
Dave...
Author: snowshoveler
Date: 16 Nov 2005 7:48 pm
i recently swapped my track drive craftsman for a 1032 vintage ariens.
its a model 924073.
guy i got it from is a fanatic he spent a week with it in the garage .
sandblasted everything and painted it all ,did a good job too .
replaced a lot of bearings and things.
anyway the rakes were stuck on the shaft and this bugged him to no end and he has been after me for 2 years to trade even so i did.
well i pulled the guts out of the bucket and took it to work with me and at lunchtime i went at it.
i cut one of the rakes like garandman did and then covered it with pen oil.
tomorow i will attempt to heat it and press the 1 side off.
then i will cut the other rake and heat and press it off as well.
i will say that those rakes are very heavy duty,the tubes are at least 1/4 thick.
i used an air powered cutoff wheel, looks like an angle grinder.
not terribly accurate but will do the job i hope.
later chris
Author: Majorxlr8n
Date: 16 Nov 2005 8:11 pm
Garandman - AWESOME job there! Man that looks SWEET!! :D
When I performed a rake removal on a Sears earlier this year, I sliced the auger rake tubes only between the "I" beams & left the ends intact. After the cut, I sprayed more penetrating oil & let it soak overnight. The next day I heated them up just a tad & the rakes SPUN off with the aid of 2x4's.
GREAT THREAD & keep the excellent quality pics coming!
Marty
Author: robmints
Date: 16 Nov 2005 8:34 pm
What's with the cutting length wise? Why don't you go straight to heat?
Author: snowshoveler
Date: 16 Nov 2005 8:41 pm
the cutting lets the PIPE relax its rusty grip on the shaft a bit.
i had 2 12 foot lengths of steel in the rakes and tried twisting and nothing was moving except i was bending the rakes outside .
chris
Author: Garandman
Date: 16 Nov 2005 9:36 pm
robmints wrote:
What's with the cutting length wise? Why don't you go straight to heat?
Cause heat + press didn't do it!
Author: Marshall
Date: 19 Nov 2005 7:47 pm
Quote:
It's Duplicolor DE1620 Chevrolet Orange engine enamal, $3.75 per can at WalMart or about $5 at auto parts stores.
Garandman, is that less expensive than the Ariens spray paint in a can? I think NurseDaddy mentioned his Ariens dealer flipping him a can of Ariens.
Author: Garandman
Date: 7 Dec 2005 12:13 pm
Here's the completed ST824. I replaced the carb because the old one was surging. After hearing how people had chased problems with them, I bought a new one - $53.
Author: Garandman
Date: 23 Dec 2005 5:40 am
Here's the blower as received. Note the 10 yo scraper bar and skids are so worn it has started to wear away the blower housing. Plenty of rust on the rakes and inside of blower housing and impeller.
Here's after replacing the scraper bar and putting on the new, two-sided skids. Sanded the rust spots, neutralized it with Extend, primed and painted. I used Rustoleum heavy rust primer and heavy rust enamal, which goes on thick and seems to hold up well.
Also used new hardware as it adds about $2 to the cost but will be easier to service in future.
Author: newjerseybt
Date: 23 Dec 2005 9:30 pm
Hi Garandman:
I think you previously stated that higher Horsepower models have the differential. Does this one have it?
I can never figure out how they achieve the differential effect with so few parts compared to an automotive type differential. One of the Ariens machines that I have has an exploded view of the gears and I can't figure out how it works. When I lift both wheels of my machine off the ground and turn one wheel with my toe, the other wheel goes in the opposite direction like it should but I can't picture it in my head how they accomplish it with hardly any parts. :?
Author: dave___in___ct
Date: 24 Dec 2005 9:07 am
The snowblower is a beauty !
Great restoration !
Dave...
Author: Garandman
Date: 24 Dec 2005 3:43 pm
newjerseybt wrote:
Hi Garandman:
I think you previously stated that higher Horsepower models have the differential. Does this one have it?
No, this is not a differential model. In fact I don't know a single peron with an Ariens Pro model.
Many of the old 7hp machines had a differential, don't know what others do and don't.
An automotive differential is incorporating a 90 degree change in power transfer; often have hypoid cut gears to lower their profile; and is handling a lot more power. So they're a lot more complicated. A good explanation is at http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential.htm
Author: Garandman
Date: 27 Dec 2005 4:20 pm
Last night I put the 1970 all back together after havibg to do more work on the auger.
The ST824 was already ready for the season.
